The science of cooking meat is interesting reading but, like most science, can be difficult to understand. Put as plainly as possible, meat is 70 percent water. Even though it is mostly water it is not “juicy”. As meat cooks, cells rupture and release their water. Once the meat reaches about 130 degrees the proteins break down into savory amino acids and start to help out flavor. At this temperature the internal water has started to migrate to the surface and slow the cooking process.At about 140 degrees collagen will start to shrink, squeezing out water and making the meat firmer. The aging enzymes have all but been destroyed and the myoglobin has been denatured producing a brown color. By the time the meat temperature reaches 150 degrees the cooking process will stop as most of the energy is being used to evaporate water. This is commonly known as the first stall. Just about all meats at this stage are considered inedible. Tender cuts have been deprived of moisture and the tough cuts are dry and very tough. These moisture losses are certain, no matter the cooking technique.
At higher internal temperatures, water continues to evaporate from the surface faster than it can migrate out. This evaporation is what contributes to the browning and bark formation known as “milliard browning reactions.” Good manipulations of this process will produce intense flavors.
Tough cuts are coached through the first stall and continued to be heated until collagen and connective tissues start to break down and fat is rendered. This point is usually referred to as the second stall. Once the second stall is reached most of the energy in the cooking process is being used to drive this reaction. This point is where the Pit Masters are separated from the Pit Cooks. Moisture management is critical at this step. Many cooks will employ foil or raise the temperature of their pit to bring them through the plateau at the expense of the final product. Foil might as well be kin to boiling, and raising temperatures will speed the drying process leaving behind a bitter burnt flavor as a result. True Pit Masters will use this time as an opportunity to develop the deep flavors inherent in great barbecue. Pits are left alone or sometimes even left to fall off a little while collagen breaks down and fat is rendered. Some Masters will employ basting techniques to layer flavors and slow the drying process to prevent burning.
While we are discussing some science, let’s look at “smoke ring” formation. Myoglobin is the protein that makes meat red. Myoglobin denatures over time with heat and turns brown, indicating doneness. In a pit, nitrogen compounds found in the smoke will react with the myoglobin to form a stable pink zone around the outside of the meat. This pink ring is known as the “smoke ring”, and is an indication of proper barbecuing techniques. Some deceitful characters will add nitrogen rich curing salts to the outside of the meat and create and artificial smoke ring; Judges beware.
Once the meat exits the second stall, we are making true barbecue. Connective tissue and fat will continue to render until the meat is very tender and succulent. The point where a piece of meat is done to perfection now becomes a personal decision. The internal temperatures can range from 185 to 210 degrees. The barbecue will have different characteristics depending on the final temperature you choose. Lower temperatures will tend to have a little more “chew”, while higher temperatures will yield a more tender product. Pit Masters must use care when judging when a product is done. If the meat is left on the pit too long it will become mushy and dry start to dry out. Take time to practice cooking meats to different temperatures to find the temperature that satisfies your personal preferences.
Understanding the science of cooking different meats can be a cumbersome task. Patience and understanding of the different processes that meat goes through to make great barbecue is essential. The stalls are a very important part of the process. Managing them correctly is the trick. Patience is the key, enjoy your experience and don’t try to rush a great day.
